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Winter Starting Tips


*At the very bottom you will find an
added note on Glow Plug Relays

** Also a Note On Low Alternator Output


Before I forget !!!
Read your manual on the Cold Start Device
Here is a MODIFIED Note I found in my
1982 Owners Manual
------------------------------
( You will also find that the 1980,81,82 & some 83
like the lever PULLED Out or They Will Not Start ! )

Starting a Cold Engine !
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Before starting the engine at Outside Temps of
15 degrees (F) and ABOVE:
Pull the Cold Start Handle Fully OUT

VERY IMPORTANT
----------------------------
At Temps of 15 degrees (F) and BELOW Do Not
pull the lever out until the motor is RUNNING.
The Motor Will NOT Start !!!
At that point and until motor is warmed up
leave the lever Out.
--------------------------------------------------------------------


These little things can be a pain in the winter.
This Will Help !

Remember Water in your fuel filter will stop you cold. Drain at least every
7500 miles. ( I change every 7500 miles)

1- We need good clean winterized fuel ( use STP Diesel Fuel Treatment if in doubt)
2- Need a good Battery Not older than 3-yrs and 685 CCA.
3- Need a good starter that will spin the motor over fast enough.
4- Need enough compression 395 psi (minimum) all cyls.should be close.
5- Need to not have a leaking head gasket.
6- Need the injection pump to not be leaking fuel & the cold start device to work.
7- If all of the above check out then :

8- Check the Glow Plug Relay. Use a test lamp connected to the first Glow Plug to the
right side ( or rear on Dasher or Quantum) then ground the other side of the lead. Turn
the Ign, switch on ( not start) and if the test lamp stays on about 8-seconds after you
dash light goes out your Relay is Good. Otherwise Replace! This assumes you have
checked the 50amp fusible link Fuse on the firewall and it is not blown.

9- Next to test the Glow plugs. I'll give you an easy way but it is Hot. Cycle your Pre.
Glow Dash light on through 3 cycles. Then Touch each Glow Plug The HOT ones are good
warm or cold replace. You Might start on 3 Good Plugs but 2 Forget it.
*Note* You cannot always reach all the plugs to do the "touch test" so you
have to follow the below (9a)

9a-A More in detail glow plug test.
Testing and Replacing Glow Plugs
-------------------------------------------------
Two types of glow plug circuits were used on early and late model vehicles.
The slowglow system was installed on early production vehicles; the fast glow
on late production vehicles. Always refer to the relay number for proper identification.

The relay number for early slow glow plug circuits is 321-911-261 (BWC #203-0024).
The later relay glow plug relay number is 171-911-261 (BWC #203-0023).
Note that the relays must match the proper part number for the type of
glow plug that is installed.
An incorrect match of fast glow relay and slow glow plug will result in
premature failure of glow plug and/or relay.

To quick check the system, check the amount of current that is flowing to all
glow plugs. A good specification to remember is fast glow plugs pull 12 amps each
and slow glow plugs pull 9 amps each.

Listed below are some guidelines to refer to when checking fast glow plug systems.

48 amps - all glow plugs are operating correctly.
36 amps - one glow plug is defective.
24 amps - two glow plugs are defective.
12 amps - three glow plugs are defective.
0 amp - all glow plugs are defective
.

For slow glow systems use the following amp rating to test:

36 amps - all glow plugs are operating correctly.
27 amps - one glow plug is defective.
18 amps - two glow plugs are defective.
9 amps - three glow plugs are defective.
0 amp - all glow plugs are defective.

The above specifications are applicable to four-cylinder applications.
If you have more than four glow plugs, just add 12 amps
for each fast glow plug
and 9 amps for each additional slow glow plug.
NOTE: Depending on outside temperature, you may
experience a surge of current up to 140 amps.

10- Thick Oil is also a problem I use 20w-50 till the temp. gets to and stays around 10
degrees (F) above then I go to 10w-40.

Hint: The Diesel likes a little fuel added with the throttle (winter starting) as you are cranking.
Hint 2: If you car is going to start it will fire in the first 20 seconds.
Hint 3: WD-40 Sprayed into the intake tube will get the motor to fire.
Hint 4: ATF (1 qt in the tank) every 3 rd. fill up is a wonderful detergent
cleaner for both the injectors and the injection pump. I always
fill the New Fuel filter with ATF (any kind) when I install it.

If after the above fails then you may E-Mail me at any time.


* This past week (01/12/97) I had a car towed in because it would not start.
Hardly unusual this time of the year.

After several checks to make sure the car was getting fuel. I put
a test lamp lead on the first glow plug and the ground to the battery.
All tested well the relay was coming on and cycling off as it should.

Finally I forced the car to start and with the test lead to the first glow
plug still in place I found that:

The Glow Plug Relay Was Sticking and Allowing the Glow Plugs to
keep burning when they should have gone out. What happened
3 of the 4 Glow Plugs had burned out and the car would not start.

A word to the wise you can never do too much testing to find your problem !


**VW Low Alternator Output, Alt. Light On, Belt Squeal.

1985-1990 Golf, Passat, Jetta

Symptoms: Low alternator output, Alternator charge light on or squealing
belts when driven in wet conditions.

Probable Cause: This condition can be traced to water splashing on belts.

Corrective Action: To correct this condition Volkswagen has released
splash shields to be installed over the drive belts thus protecting them
from moisture, and preventing the belts from slipping which causes the
low Alternator output and squealing belts.

Splash shield (Part # 191 825 0250 01C) should be used for Golfs and Jettas
(Part # 357 825 254) should be installed on Passats.


Questions


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